5.29.2011

New Age Anthropologie

Most women I know let out a sigh of yearning at the mention of Anthropologie. Gorgeous, albeit pricey, clothes, accessories, and décor. I was recently at my friend Michelle’s place when I notice their monthly catalogue on her kitchen table. Excited to lust after items I could not afford, I started to thumb my way through the catalogue. Upon closer examination, my excitement faded, quicly displaced by discomfort.

The location of the shoot appears to be India. A beautiful backdrop no doubt, but not very original and quite frankly, a little colonial in style.

A quick sample of the catalogue to your right - the lovely model is wearing the "contrasting halves dress". How clever, to have a contrasting dress on a glowing model in front of a small army of brown boys. Are we seriously still using "locals" as props to ensure the product is prominently shown? Is this actually seen as appropriate?

See more of the catalogue here.

I was thinking about why this particular company would bother to go on a trek to India to produce an offensive catalogue. Then it struck me: Anthropologie. The connotation of the brand name itself, Anthropologie, combined with this absurd neo-colonial imagery leads me to ask the question: Are people that unaware of history, or do they feel they have the power to simply ignore it?

Anthropologists have generally made me uncomfortable. The need to examine other cultures is not what makes me uncomfortable, it is the classic attitudes that I have encountered in reading, talks and the like that have incited an unsettling feeling to stir deep within my belly. The history of this particular field is not pretty. The study of people in "other" cultures emerged from the study of natural history. Cultures that had been colonized by European powers were studied in a "scientific" manner, studied as one would study the environment. Once anthropology was seen as distinct from natural history, the concept of race and the placement of value on races was a hot topic. Cultural dominance often comes with the assumption of cultural superiority - and wasn't that the essence of colonialism?

Although the field has changed rapidly and anthropologists of today would not share the views of their nineteenth and even twentieth century peers, it's unfortunate that this retailer has chosen to be "clever" with their May catalogue and use beautiful clothes to dredge up reminders of an ugly past.

"Anthropologie offers a one-of-a-kind and compelling shopping experience that makes women feel beautiful, hopeful and connected ... Complex as you are, you remain our inspiration and because of this, we endeavor to bring you an unimagined experience."

I am a bit more complex than you imagined.

1 comment:

  1. ugh...ugh...ugh....ameen to everything you wrote. even Snoop Dogg and Pharrell do it in Rio with hot local women from the favela (just to keep their street cred) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FE194VN6c4

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